Funchal, Madeira: The Floating Garden of the Atlantic
Winston Churchill once described Madeira as a “floating garden”. After experiencing the journey up the island’s winding mountain roads ourselves - from dockside to the lush heights of Quinta Jardins do Lago - I realised it’s the perfect description. The hills surrounding Funchal are cloaked in green, rolling down towards the glittering harbour in a way that feels truly enchanting.
Sweeping views of Funchal from the Monte cable car - where hillside homes, the Atlantic Ocean and a golden Madeira sunset come together in one scene.
Jardins do Lago: A Garden Paradise
At the Botanical Garden Hotel, we stepped into a world of colour and texture. With over 500 plant species on display, every turn revealed something new: towering palms, sculptural succulents, and flowering pathways that seemed to pull you deeper into the greenery. Quinta Jardins do Lago truly feels like one of the most beautiful gardens in Madeira, with every corner inviting you to slow down and notice details you might usually rush past.
One of the highlights was a pergola draped with orchids in vivid shades of crimson, violet, and sunshine yellow - hanging above like living decorations. Walking beneath them felt like stepping through an art installation, styled entirely by nature.
And then there was Colombo, the giant tortoise. True to his explorer’s name, he wandered casually through the gardens before being hand-fed by the groundsman. In the midst of this lush paradise, Colombo seemed to embody the slow, timeless rhythm of the island itself.
Learning Amongst Orchids
To round off the visit, we sat in on an informative talk about Madeira’s orchids and other tropical plants. At one point, the speaker revealed just how valuable some of the rarer species are - and that’s when I nearly fell off my chair. Chairs seemed to be a running theme on this trip: back on board Fred. Olsen’s Borealis a fellow passenger was caught out when hers reclined so suddenly she almost ended up wearing the G&T she was still holding.
The most fascinating discovery was that orchids don’t naturally grow in soil at all. In the wild, their habitat is the branches of trees, where roots cling to bark and absorb air and moisture. To recreate those conditions at home, growers often use materials like cork, tree bark, or coconut husk - all of which allow the roots to breathe just as they would in nature.
The talk was accompanied by a glass of Madeira wine - sweet, rich, and golden. We loved it so much that we picked up a bottle to take home, a reminder of the island in liquid form. And yes, there were more pastéis de nata. At this point, I was starting to think custard tarts should come with their own passport stamp.
Exploring Funchal’s Streets & Markets
After leaving the gardens, we took time to wander through the streets of Funchal. The Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmers’ Market) was a highlight - stalls overflowing with vivid tropical fruit, and strings of fiery red chillies. The colours, textures, and scents were as much an inspiration as they were a feast for the senses.
As we strolled, we spotted more examples of the azulejos tiles Portugal is famous for, each one telling a story in blues and whites. These patterns, paired with the lush greenery of Madeira, made the city feel like a blend of art gallery and botanical showcase.
When we first stepped off the ship, though, our mission was food. We found a harbourfront seafood restaurant that turned out to be incredible. Fresh fish, shellfish, and local flavours served with the view of the marina - where ducks and shoals of fish swam just metres away from our table.
Later, with some free time before heading back aboard, we wandered through a few more bars, watching the streets of Funchal slowly light up as the sun set and the city shifted into night.
Churchill’s Brushstrokes
Churchill himself fell in love with Madeira, not only for its landscapes but for its light. He often came here to paint, setting up his easel against backdrops of terraced hillsides and the Atlantic horizon. It’s no wonder Churchill chose Madeira as a painting retreat - the island itself feels like a living canvas, with bold contrasts and compositions already framed by the sea and sky.
The island’s light has long been a magnet for artists and designers, and it’s easy to see why. In Madeira, colours seem amplified - greens glow more vividly, skies deepen to a sharper blue, and shadows cut with striking definition. Walking the same winding paths Churchill once did, I felt as though the island was staging its own compositions: bold colours, dramatic contrasts, and ready-made canvases waiting to be captured.
A pair of elegant crane sculptures stand gracefully in the lush gardens of Funchal’s Jardins do Lago hotel, with sweeping city views framed by Madeira’s greenery.
From Neutral Stone to Bold Colour
Looking back across Portugal, I was struck by the sharp contrast between Lisbon and Madeira. Lisbon’s palette was neutral, calm and balanced - earthy stone hues, pale pink marbles, golden highlights, and subtle blue tiles. Madeira, by contrast, was unapologetically bold: saturated greens, orchid purples, deep reds, and tropical textures spilling over every surface.
What are the key differences between Lisbon’s design palette and Madeira’s? One whispers in neutrals, the other sings in colour. And how can the colours and textures of Madeira influence modern surface pattern design? By pushing me, as a new designer, to embrace not just structure and restraint, but also vibrancy and flourish.
Together, they told a story of balance: one city whispering in neutrals, the other singing in colour. Like being handed two complementary palettes - structured, historic elegance on one hand and organic, vibrant abundance on the other.
It’s a pairing that I know will shape future pattern collections: Lisbon’s geometry meeting Madeira’s flourish and freedom.
From Lisbon’s timeless stone statues to the plant-draped entrance of Funchal’s Botanical Garden Hotel - a striking contrast of European architecture and Madeira’s lush, tropical charm.
A Taste of Goa at Sea
Our final evening aboard Fred. Olsen’s Borealis gave us one more surprise before the journey home: dinner at Vasco, the ship’s Goan restaurant named after the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama. The menu here is shaped by their very own chefs, with dishes inspired by authentic Goan flavours - rich curries, freshly baked breads, and marinades layered with spice.
The story behind Vasco is as memorable as the food itself. One of the restaurant’s crew members took his colleagues from the ship back to his village in Goa. There, they tried local delicacies marinated in spices grown and blended by the villagers themselves. After a few beers and a good old chinwag, the concept for Vasco was born - a way to bring the warmth and vibrancy of Goan cooking to life on board.
Rather than feeling like a finale, the meal added another layer to our journey - connecting Portugal’s history of exploration with a dining experience that spanned continents. From Lisbon’s pastéis de nata to Madeira’s seafood and wine, and now Goa’s spice-rich flavours, the trip became a tapestry of tastes as well as places.
A feast for the eyes as well as the palate - the vibrant flavours of Goa brought to life at Vasco, Fred. Olsen’s onboard restaurant inspired by a village feast in India.
Farewell to the Floating Garden
Our true farewell came later that night, as we sat on our cabin balcony reflecting on the Fred. Olsen Atlantic cruise that had carried us from Liverpool’s docks to Lisbon’s tiled streets and Madeira’s gardens. It was a moment to pause and take in how much ground (and sea) we had covered on this Borealis cruise itinerary, each stop offering its own palette of sights, flavours, and inspirations.
Why is Madeira called the “Floating Garden of the Atlantic”? Because everywhere you turn, from terraced hillsides to coastal views, you’re surrounded by a tapestry of colour and growth that seems to rise straight out of the ocean itself.
The next morning, as we drove towards the airport, we waved goodbye to this Atlantic jewel. From the sea to the hills, the ship to the streets, Portugal had given me not just memories but a visual library of inspiration I’ll carry forward, sketch by sketch, until the time comes to turn it into design.
Turning Journeys Into Design
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